Sunscreen
Korean Sunscreen Rules: How Much, How Often, and the Mistake I Made
For a long time, my only sun protection was a tinted cover lotion that said SPF50+ on the bottle. SPF50+ sounds like a lot. I figured I was covered.
I probably wasn’t. I only spread a thin layer of that lotion on my face, nothing on my neck, and a thin layer gives you much less protection than the number on the label. So I added a real sunscreen to my routine, and I want to share what I learned while figuring it out.
This post covers how to read a Korean sunscreen label, how much to use, when to put it on, and what I actually do as a 24-year-old guy in Korea.
How to Read a Korean Sunscreen Label
Pick up almost any sunscreen in an Olive Young and you’ll see something like SPF50+ PA++++. Here’s what that means.
| Label | Protects against | What it tells you |
|---|---|---|
| SPF (e.g. 50+) | UVB, the rays behind sunburn | Higher number = more protection from burning. 50+ is the top rating in Korea. |
| PA (+ to ++++) | UVA, the rays linked to tanning and skin aging | More plus signs = more UVA protection. PA++++ is the highest grade. |
| 자외선 차단 기능성 화장품 | — | Korean for “UV protection functional cosmetic.” Sunscreens in Korea are regulated as functional cosmetics, and this phrase marks them on the package. |
The PA system started in Japan and is used across Asia, which is why you see it on Korean products but rarely on American ones. In the US, you’d look for “broad spectrum” instead.
My sunscreen, Goodal Heartleaf Soothing Moisture Sun Cream, is labeled SPF50+ PA++++ and has that functional cosmetic line on the back.
The Rules I Follow Now
1. Use enough
SPF numbers are tested with a thick layer, about 2 mg per square centimeter of skin. For your face, that works out to roughly a quarter teaspoon. A popular rule of thumb in Korea is the “two-finger rule”: squeeze a line of sunscreen along two fingers.
Most people use far less, which is exactly what I was doing with my tinted lotion. Now I squeeze out about one finger segment for my face and another one for my neck. To be honest, that’s still less than the two-finger rule, so it’s the next thing I want to improve.
2. Sunscreen goes on last in your skincare, first before anything tinted
My morning order is cleanser, toner, sunscreen, then tinted cover lotion. Sunscreen goes on before the cover lotion, so the cover lotion is a bonus layer instead of my only protection.
3. Don’t forget your neck
I apply sunscreen to my face and neck. The cover lotion only goes on my face, so before I added sunscreen, my neck had nothing.
4. Every day, not just sunny days
UVA gets through clouds and windows, so sunscreen is an everyday step, not a beach-day step.
5. Reapply when you’re outside
The usual advice is to reapply about every two hours if you’re outdoors, and after sweating or washing your face. I’ll be honest: I don’t reapply yet. Putting cream sunscreen back on over a tinted lotion in the middle of the day is a hassle, so I’m planning to get a sunscreen stick for touch-ups. I’ll update this post when I do.
How it feels
The Goodal sun cream feels light and fresh, with no white cast. It doesn’t sting my eyes, and my tinted cover lotion goes on top without pilling. One thing to know: it has a faint milky scent when you apply it. Scent is personal, so some people will like it and some won’t.
Fun fact: my tube is a Sanrio collab edition. Korean drugstores do character collabs all the time, so don’t be surprised if the packaging looks different from photos online.
FAQ
Is SPF in a tinted lotion or BB cream enough? Usually not on its own. You’d need to apply a lot more than a normal thin layer to get the protection on the label. Use a real sunscreen underneath and treat the tinted product as extra.
Is SPF50 twice as strong as SPF25? No. Higher SPF does block more UVB, but the difference gets smaller as the number goes up. Applying enough and reapplying matter more than chasing a bigger number.
Why are Korean sunscreens so popular? Many are lightweight, feel like a moisturizer, and leave little or no white cast, so people actually wear them every day.
Do guys really need sunscreen? Yes. Sun exposure is a major cause of dark spots and early skin aging for everyone.
This post is based on my personal experience and is not medical advice. If you have a skin condition or react to sunscreen, please see a dermatologist.
Sources: Peach & Lily: SPF vs. PA · Colorescience: What PA++++ means